GALLIPOLI (from the Greek Kale Polis meaning beautiful city). The origin of the Beautiful City is uncertain, many attribute its foundation to the Greeks, others to the Messapians. Gallipoli, an island in the Ionian Sea, joined to the mainland by a bridge, preserves in the historic center the sumptuous Aragonese castle with its Rivellino and ancient bastioned walls; the alleys and spider's web courtyards make up an immense labyrinth from the Byzantine era to defend the city that disoriented the invader and failed to have it conquered.
The many seventeenth- and eighteenth-century aristocratic palaces, the hypogean oil mills dug into the foundations of the city that produced lampante oil in the 1600s, the superb Cathedral of St. Agatha with its Baroque facade inlaid in carparo, the tawny local stone and the more than 700 sq. m. of canvases in the interior, the 19th-century Old Pharmacy with its ceramics where medicines were stored, and the monasteries and Confraternal Oratories that arose in the second half of the 1600s as guilds of arts and crafts are jealous guardians of Gallipoli's traditions and religiosity.
The Oratory of Santa Maria della Purità, which organized the "vastagi o bastagi" (the dockers), is a treasure trove of beauty for its carved and painted stalls, frescoes and tiled floor. The Oratory of the Most Holy Crucifix, which organized the "uttari" (barrel makers), with its striking terra di siena-colored façade, holds a wooden statue of the Dead Christ of incomparable beauty.
"Going around the frying pan," that's how the old town of Gallipoli is called, because in aerial views the circular old town and the bridge - which looks like the handle - give the idea of a frying pan.
THE FEAST.
In the nineteenth century the feast of Santa Cristina was celebrated in the second half of July, but not with a fixed date. Since the beginning of the twentieth century, the feast has been held from July 23 to 25 with arrangements that have varied only slightly over the years.
On July 23, the preannouncement of the feast is given by blanks and the music of the bands in the streets, and in the afternoon the procession from the church of Santa Maria della Purità winds its way through the city streets.
On the second day the bands perform selected pieces in public places in the morning; in the early afternoon "la cuccagna a mare" a pole leaning over the dock of the harbor and sprinkled with tallow, on the top of which a flag of Italy is hoisted, and the youngsters running along the pole must manage to catch the flag and thus win the competition.
The third day is reserved for light entertainment, and at the end of the festival more fireworks light up the sea. The main street hosts stalls of all kinds, including the inevitable scapece (fried and marinated small fish) and cupeta (the crispy).
In popular tradition St. Christina bears the "steddhra" (star) from the incident of a boy who died by drowning one religious holiday. Similar facts have occurred over the years, corroborating the popular belief that advises against bathing on the feast day.
Another peculiarity is the presence at the foot of the statue of the Saint, by De Lucrezi, of a small dog, representing fidelity and symbolizing Cristina's constancy of faith. According to tradition, the little dog disappeared during the cholera epidemic to reappear at the end of it: this is why Gallipolians hope that it always remains at the Saint's feet to ward off any misfortune to the city.
To visit: Angevin Castle, Greek Fountain, Cathedral of St. Agatha, Church of St. Francis of Assisi, Church of the Holy Crucifix, Church of St. Mary of the Angels, the Old Town.
Photo by Leo Barletta / Scattomatto
